No Big Players in Laos

Like many others, one of the things I most look forward to when traveling to exotic locations, is the local cuisine. I always try to sample a nation’s well known dishes, as well as their lesser known ones. Far from home, the food can be challenging, comforting, and humbling. But even so, after just a few days of authentic food, all I want is a sinful pizza or burger or pasta. What is it about these kinds of meals that grab a hold of you and why do I feel so guilty indulging?

While traveling through Laos last week, quite probably my favorite country to visit out of all the countries that I have been to so far, I was struck by how ubiquitous the pizza, burger and pasta menu is. Laos food is simple, fresh and delicious and I love how good it makes me feel. I am no food scientist, but it’s possible the free range and organic ingredients are the culprits. Almost every restaurant offers local Laos fare as well as pizzas, burgers and pastas. It is the norm. These reproductions are not amazing, but really not bad…considering that those who cook them have probably never eaten the real thing. The locals do not eat our foods.

It may seem odd to cater to the whims of the Western tourist at every restaurant on the main streets of Laos, but I do take pleasure from the fact that there are no McDonald’s, KFC or Pizza Hut “restaurants” in the entire country. There are no big players in Laos.

Not one.

I sincerely hope it stays this way.

Even so, I’m not proud to admit that the first meal I ate when we flew to Thailand from Laos was a Burger King Whopper (with bacon and cheese) at Chiang Mai airport.

Fast food. It gets under your skin. Photoshopped images, loads of salt, hardly food, free range and organic usually out the door. So far removed from traditional Laos and Thai cuisine.

Naturally, I found this appropriation of fast food photos quite amusing. This was a sign for a restaurant in Vang Vieng, Laos, where fast food does not exist. Do the photos look familiar?

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Make Bacon

After reading the book Heat by Bill Buford, I’ve dreamed of curing my own pork. Curing meat uses salt to draw out the moisture and this allows the meat to last much longer. When the apocalypse that we’re all waiting for hits, we might need low tech techniques like these to make our food go further. Maybe. In the meantime, there’s nothing wrong with home made bacon just for fun.

Traditionally, pig slaughter takes place in autumn, after a summer of fattening up and curing begins at this time of year too. The work is generally done outside and needs cooler temperatures to keep the meat happy. Winter is too cold in many parts of the world to work outdoors, so Autumn is the perfect season. Also, in the northern hemisphere, the holiday season follows soon after autumn and there is much appreciation of pork over the festive feast period. Christmas ham anyone?

I’ve always loved the idea of curing/brining my own bacon. I wasn’t sure if I was going to smoke it too since I know nothing about smoke, but from my research, the extra step was well worth it and regarded by bacon curers as a requirement of home made bacon. So, I  decided to attempt smoking my bacon. I’ve never smoked anything. Well, any food.

I bought the largest piece of free range bacon I could find. The Freedom Farm slab of pork belly wasn’t that big at all, I was hoping for a kilo piece but I had to make do with 800 grams.

I mixed 1/4 cup of the cure that I procured online, with a 1/4 cup of non-iodised table salt and a 1/8th cup of brown sugar. I rubbed the pork belly all over and shoved it into a ziplock back and chucked it into the fridge. I flipped it once a day and after 2 days, I took it out, drained the liquid that had come out of it, rubbbed more cure into the meat and bagged it into the fridge for another 3 days. I disposed of the bag and cure, washed the pork belly and left it under a slow running tap for one hour. Then I drained the water and put the meat into a sieve and put it into a bowl to catch any drips. I refrigerated this over night. At this stage, this is pretty much cured meat. The next, better stage is smoke.

I don’t have a smoker so I concocted a makeshift stovetop and oven smoker that used a lot of tinfoil, a roasting tray, a drying rack and woodchips.

I cut my pork belly in half and only smoked one half because I wasn’t sure if it would turn out right. 4 hours of smoking did the trick but my technique is far from perfect so I won’t be sharing it until I know what I’m doing.

I really, wish there was more bacon.

My home made bacon was turned into:

  1. Bacon and egg quiche
  2. Carbonara
  3. Bacon sandwiches

My bacon making tips for next time:

  1. Wash bacon for longer – maybe two hours.
  2. Order a larger piece of pork belly. At least 1 kilo (2 pounds).
  3. Smoke the whole slab.
  4. Try maple syrup. Maybe even smoke the bacon with maple?
  5. Heat the woodchips for longer. Get a real smoke going. Don’t be afraid of smoking it too much.
  6. Try just stove top rather than oven. Possibly, using a tall pot like a dutch oven and a rack for more distance between meat and heat.

Free farmed vs. Free range

Piglet at a friend's mum's farm August 2010.

Hellers Free Farmed Streaky Bacon
$8.75 for 250g ($35 per kg)

Freedom Farms Streaky Bacon
$11.70 for 250g ($46 per kg)

I bought Hellers the other day instead of Freedom Farms. It was the cheaper choice but I noticed that it was “free farmed” rather than “free range”.

So, what’s the difference?

I didn’t know, so I did a little investigating…

Free farmed: 20% of New Zealand pigs are free farmed. Considered an ethical choice, it is more common in NZ than free range.

Free range: 1% of pigs farmed in New Zealand. Pigs have complete free range.

The difference is free range pigs are allowed to move freely between paddocks. Free farmed means that pigs are only allowed to move freely within their own paddock.

If you are interested in more information including the difference between the farming styles in NZ, visit Pig Farming In NZ here.

There are lots of interesting facts about NZ pork including:

  1. …None of the pork, bacon or ham you eat  is ever in an individual crate or cage. Only the sow is housed in a stall (also called a crate).
  2. On any day less than 4% of all pigs are in a sow stall.
  3. We have never had a case of swine flu in our pig herd.
  4. It is impractical to farm pigs free range in many regions due to climatic conditions and soil types.

And an interesting non-NZ pork fact:

  1. Pork is the most popular meat in the world.

I really liked the design of the cardboard sleeve and tray.

The tray and sleeve design meant that I didn’t need to transfer the bacon to another container after opening.

The slices were cut very thick and needed to be cooked a bit longer. The flavour was very smokey.

The thick cut streaky bacon.

Perfect for a weekend breakfast of bacon and eggs.

Free farmed is good enough for me. So I will happily buy either free farmed or free range.

Happy Eats

It’s getting easier and easier to buy free range and fair trade. Less than a year ago, I turned my nose up at spending so much on happy food, but I’m getting to the stage where I can almost skip the prison chicken.

This week, I picked up a bunch of happy eats at Nosh. I try to be realistic, so when free range is on special, it’s a good time to stock up and freeze.

Turks Free Range Chicken thighs are on special this week for $7.99 per kilo pack. Other stuff I picked up were Freedom Farms pork rump steak $23.99 kg. All Good Fair Trade bananas $4.99 a bunch.

I brushed the chicken thighs with a mix of honey, soy sauce and a good squeeze of lemon. Then baked for 1 hour at 180°C alongside a tray of kumara and a bulb of garlic. Turn up the oven in the last 15 minutes to get a crispy skin. Serve with beans. Super easy.

In the past, I always thought that free range were a bit small looking. These chicken thighs were quite large and had a lot of flavour. I’m not quite used to it, but the meat was more firm. I realise this isn’t a bad thing, just different.

Price comparison between Nosh free range meat and supermarket regular meats.

Chicken thighs (kg)
$7.99 / $6.99
Free range / Regular

Pork rump steak (kg)
$23.99 / $19.99
Free range / Regular